A Visit to the King of Thailand‘s Birthplace

The title of this blog entry was inspired by another entry I discovered years ago in late 2019 entitled “Day 18 – Boston - a visit to theKing of Thailand‘s birthplace” by “MIKE, SU, AND GIGG TOUR AMERICA.” Their blog featured the journey of two ladies named Su and Gigg who came from Thailand to see and explore the United States. They were guided by an American named Mike who showed them places in different states in the year 2007.  Although it has been fourteen years since their tour of America and when their blog was created and updated, it has also inspired me to want to share my story of how I became interested in learning about Thailand, the late monarch – His Majesty, King Bhumibol Adulyadej (1927-2016) and of my recent visit to his birthplace on my birthday today (July 16).

My story begins when I moved to the Boston area in the summer of 2019. I wanted to get in better physical shape since I noticed I was gaining weight, so I went to a local Martial Arts training center (or a “dojo” as they call it) to take up kickboxing in the hopes of losing weight. To my surprise and with the guidance of the staff, I lost 22 pounds. The owner, a Vietnamese gentleman named "Ninja" (nobody knows his real name) took me under his wing, became a mentor to me, and taught me some very important life lessons. He also tried to get me to take up Muay Thai, which is a “martial art and combat sport” from Thailand (Thanks, Wikipedia). I was initially scared of sparring with the other well-trained students, but I did try it.

Though I tried it, my heart was not in it. It was no one else’s fault, I just did not want to be a fighter. I only wanted to lose weight and get in shape. I didn’t want to do Muay Thai anymore, but then Ninja gave me some Muay Thai gear, which consisted of boxing gloves, shin guards, and training head guards. I was deeply moved. Because of his generosity and his investment in me, I did not want to disappoint him so I kept trying. In my efforts to be more competent (although I was never really good at it), I felt I needed to learn more so I went on Wikipedia to get an idea of what Muay Thai was. I soon fell into the “black hole” of Wikipedia and found myself learning about Thailand (where Muay Thai originated from), it’s culture, it’s history, and of King Bhumibol Adulyadej.

I actually first learned of King Bhumibol Adulyadej when one of my college friends (now current roommate) invited me and an acquaintance on a tour (since he was training to be a tour guide and was practicing on us) of historical sites in Cambridge, Massachusetts one snowy afternoon in either late December of 2018 or in January 2019. One of the sites he showed us was the “King Bhumibol Adulyadej Birthplace Monument” at King Bhumibol Adulyadej Square, right outside of Harvard Kennedy School at the corner of Eliot and Bennett Streets. Admittedly, I did not think much of it because I was more interested in the sites relating to American political figures. I had not realized that an unknown seed had been planted and that my second visit there would have a more profound impact on me.

Throughout the fall and winter of 2019, when I was not at work or exercising at the dojo, I spent some spare time learning about King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand. One documentary that I enjoyed seeing was “The People's King,” which had originally aired on History Channel. I believe it was in viewing the documentary that I was reminded that King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand had been born, as the plaque of the birthplace monument states, “at Mount Auburn Hospital in Cambridge, Massachusetts, on December 5, 1927 while his father, Prince Mahidol, was a student at Harvard Medical School.” I was determined that I would go to pay my respects to the late king at the monument on what would have been his 92^nd birthday.

That day was also a Thursday and a day off from work. However, I also had a job interview that morning in the city of Boston so planning, and preparation was needed. My plan was simple. I was to wake up early, dress in a black suit and tie (though I wore thermal clothing underneath to keep warm), go to the job interview, pay my respects to the late king on my way back to the place where I live, eat at a local Thai restaurant, go home, and change into my workout clothes to do two back-to-back kickboxing classes. That Thursday morning, December 5^th, everything went according to plan. While I felt the interview went well, I sadly did not get the job. After the interview had ended, after lasting for more than an hour, I decided it was time to make my pilgrimage to the Birthplace Monument at Cambridge. Although this was my second visit, I did not remember how to get there. Thankfully, I printed out the directions the night before so I would find the monument with more ease. I took the red line of the subway and travelled north to Harvard Station.

When I arrived the weather was clear, although it was also chilly. I walked from the terminal at Harvard Station, via Brattle Street, on Eliot Street, and before I knew it, I finally saw the monument up ahead. 

At the square, there were also other people from Thailand and Thai Americans who were there paying respects to the late king. I stood outside the inner circle of people, but they soon welcomed me in. One lady named Kanty asked me to take pictures of her at the monument through the use of her phone, I gladly obliged. In return, she took pictures of me with some of the other visitors there.

There was an older gentleman named Threeracht Charlie Songtachalert, who is the Royal Thai Honorary Vice Consul of the Consulate of Thailand in Boston. He asked me who I was and wanted to know why I was there. I told him that I took an interest after taking up Muay Thai. I also told him of the respect had for King Bhumibol as I began to learn of him. I also met Mrs. Sasiwimol Chamnankit (นางศศิวิมล ชำนาญกิจ), President of Thai Association of Boston. They also invited me to a memorial service to the king that would take place five days later at Wat Nawamin Thai Temple in Raynham. I told them I was interested, and I indeed wanted to go, but due to scheduling conflicts I was unable to attend. After some time, we parted ways, and I boarded the bus that took me where I needed to go. Ironically, the final bus stop was in front of Ninja’s dojo. I went inside to visit briefly and told him all that had happened. The rest of the day went as planned.

In the days and weeks after my pilgrimage, I came across the blog I mentioned in my first paragraph, and I was inspired to go and see the actual birthplace at Mount Auburn Hospital for myself. On a chilly late afternoon on Saturday December 28^th, I made an attempt to go visit the site (without printing directions). I took the bus to Harvard Station and found Mt Auburn Street. However, I originally went in the wrong direction heading southeast to Putnam Square. After ten minutes, I realized my error and asked some pedestrians where the hospital was. They pointed me in the right direction and after walking for almost half an hour after getting lost, I finally arrived at the hospital well after dusk had fallen. A kind hospital security guard also pointed me in the right direction. I went to the main entrance and after asking yet another security personnel, I found an exhibit in a hallway adjacent to the lobby. The exhibit highlighted the history of the hospital and a tiny area honoring the King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand.

There were two portraits of the King and Queen of Thailand presented to Mount Auburn Hospital during their visit in 1960.

Newspaper articles highlighting the visit that King and Queen of Thailand made to Mount Auburn Hospital in July of 1960.

There was also a small table, with some flowers, a guest book, and a portrait of the king.

Then I went to take a picture of the plaque outside the Parsons Building, where the king was actually born.

After this, I went home although I was not satisfied. In retrospect, I should have gone in the early afternoon on a weekday to visit inside the Parsons Building and see the approximate site. I was determined that next time, I would see it in person.

And now, 1 year, 6 months, and 19 days later, we come to today which is the day of my birthday. It was 90 degrees outside and I didn’t feel like going out to travel. However, I was determined that since this was my birthday I had to do something productive. I drank some cold water, got dressed, and went to a bus stop to wait for the bus to take me to Harvard Square. I didn’t have to wait long. The bus arrived on time, and before I knew it, I was in Harvard Square. I walked past the birthplace monument in front of the Harvard Kennedy School through the entrance of John F. Kennedy Memorial Park.

Once there, I took a right towards Memorial Drive and walked north towards Mt. Auburn Street admiring the scenery along the Charles River. After about thirteen minutes, I finally arrived at the front of Mount Auburn Memorial Hospital.

From there, I immediately went to the plaque outside the Parsons Building to read that "behind the tall, second-floor windows of the building is the operating room where Prince Bhumibol Adulyadej of Siam (Thailand) was born..." 

Then I went to the Parsons Building and was able to go inside for my very first time. I put on a face mask covering my nostrils and mouth before entering out of the respect to the hospital staff working there.

Once inside, I began my search for the operating room that the king had been born in. I was greeted by boxes on my right, which I did not mind.

As I went through a corridor, I inwardly became excited. I felt as though I were an archeologist about to make an amazing discovery. At the end of the corridor, there was a door on the right that was labeled “Department of OB/GYN – Newborn Services." I attempted to turn the door knob, but it was locked.

There was another door in front of me labelled “Private.” I hesitated to turn the door knob because after all it was a working hospital, but my curiosity got the better of me. I tried and it too was locked. I believe it was at least one of these doors would have led me to the operating room where the king had been born.

There was a third door to my right which opened to a staircase leading to an office called “protection services.”

I went down the stairs and found another corridor. 

“Surely there must be a way to the operating room,” I thought as I searched, “I have to see it before I leave.” There was an office with a someone working inside it and I wondered if I just ask politely, that person might point me in the right direction. I admit I am shy so it’s not easy for to talk to strangers. I took a deep breath, went inside, and with an administrator looking at me I then said, “Hello. I’m sorry to bother you. I’m looking for the actual birthplace site of the former King of Thailand. Do you know where it is?” I was advised to go to the Stanton Building to the front desk and that there was an exhibit there as well. I thanked the administrator and headed to the Stanton Building.

Once inside, I went to the information desk and asked, “Hello. I’m looking for the actual birthplace site of the former King of Thailand. Do you know where it is?” “Oh sure,” the receptionist said, “There are people from all over who come to visit the site.” She then led me to the same exhibit I had seen before on December 28, 2019. I thanked her, although I was hoping to visit the actual operating room.

I took more pictures (as seen above this paragraph) and when I finished, I went back to the front desk and thanked the receptionist for her help. Then I exited the building displaying outward satisfaction, but inwardly disappointed. I want to clarify that I was not disappointed in the exhibit itself, but that I didn’t get to see the operating room where the king was born.

As I waited for Bus 73 to take me to Harvard Square, I went to an area to view the tall second-floor windows of the Parsons Building. “So close,” I thought, “I really wanted to see it today on my birthday.”

I briefly thought of going back to try again to see the operating room, but I immediately decided against it. I tried and I gave my best. “Maybe I can send an e-mail with a request to see the operating room in person and perhaps schedule a time for a visit,” I thought, “the least they could do is reply and inform me on whether I can or cannot see the actual birthplace site.” Anyway, Bus 73 soon arrived. I got on the bus and within three minutes, I was back in Harvard Square.

Before heading home, I stopped briefly at my old sanctuary, the Harvard Coop, that had now been renovated and reopened. I had not been there for over a year. I went inside.

The aesthetics were a little different. To me it appeared lighter with red and white walls instead of red and brown as it used to be. The lobby of the first floor was almost entirely filled with apparel promoting the prestigious university. The café on the second floor was removed and that space has been filled with more bookshelves. While I understand the need for renovation, I miss the way it used to look. It didn’t feel like my old sanctuary anymore though this is not anyone’s fault. I can’t imagine myself sitting here to read and study for hours as I used to before the pandemic. I sadly didn’t buy anything from there and soon left to go home.

 And so, I am once again inside my room and one year older. I have other thoughts I that want to express, but I will save that for another blog entry at another time. For now, I want to conclude this blog entry with a quote. Here are some wise words from His Majesty the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand (1927-2016): “No matter how much one learns, if an insight is not attained, the learning is not accomplished, with no real result realized.”