Exploring JFK’s Boston - Another Kennedy Pilgrimage

Yesterday, August 25, 2023, was the fourteenth anniversary of when Edward Moore Kennedy, Senator of Massachusetts for forty-seven years, brother of the late President John F. Kennedy (1917-1963), New York Senator Robert F. Kennedy (1925-1968), and Ambassador Jean Kennedy Smith (1928-2020), died at the age of seventy-seven in the year of 2009. I wanted to go pay my respects when he lay in state at the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, but I was unable to go. At that time, I was going through a very dark period in my life since I had recently dropped out of school when I was in my early twenties. I had wanted to meet Senator Kennedy when he was alive. After all, he had witnessed memorable events in history, was acquainted with ten presidents since he entered the senate and was the youngest sibling of his family’s generation.

I have decided that in his honor (and as an epilogue for this month), to visit some places of significance in the city of Boston, Massachusetts to the late senator, his family, and particularly to his older brother John F. Kennedy. Since I woke up extremely early, I decided to go this morning to visit these sites. I was inspired after seeing a photo tour conducted by Gerald E. Mantel called "JFK's Boston - October 2012" for a website called SuperiorReading.com. I had already traveled extensively to six cemeteries in connection to Kennedys, outside the Boston area in the past two weeks, so it was nice to visit another type of environment for a change. It was also beneficial that it would be located within the city of Boston, which is close to where I reside.

 My plan was simple. I was to visit these sites that Mr. Mantel talked about in his photo tour. When I left the house at 8:55 this morning, it was a cloudy 74 degrees though it was expected to reach 84 by 3:00 in the afternoon. I printed out travel directions because even though I had explored the city of Boston before, my visits there were too sporadic to remember how to locate any of the sites by memory. I boarded an MBTA bus to the local subway station on the Orange Line and from there, I sat in the subway car until I reached Haymarket Station at 9:39 in the morning.

From Haymarket, I walked for two minutes via John F. Fitzgerald Surface Road onto Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy Greenway Conservancy.

 

According to the proprietor’s website, the Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy Greenway is “is an adventurous modern park. Curving through the heart of Boston, it’s 1.5 miles of wondrous sights and unforgettable experiences.” Admittedly, I did not walk through the entire greenway since there were other sites I wanted to visit today. Nevertheless, I wanted to begin my exploration here since it is named after the matriarch of the Kennedy Family. It was named after Mrs. Kennedy since she was born in the North End neighborhood, about five minutes walking distance from the greenway.

From here I took a two-minute walk to see the second site of my pilgrimage. On the way there, I saw that arrived at the scene of a car accident on the corner opposite where the site was. Though I felt bad for the situation, and I had briefly contemplated returning later in the day, but I would not be deterred from my mission. I chose to work around the situation and to document my discovery as discreetly as possible.

The second site of my pilgrimage was John Francis Fitzgerald Memorial plaque at 120 North Street.

The memorial plaque honors John Francis "Honey Fitz" Fitzgerald (February 11, 1863 – October 2, 1950) who served in the Massachusetts State Senate, twice elected to the United States House of Representatives as congressman for the ninth district, and the first American-born Irish mayor of Boston, for his contributions to the commonwealth and “in commemoration of his distinguished services.” After visiting his final resting place in West Roxbury and this memorial plaque, it has made me want to learn more about this man and of his accomplishments, which I know very little of. I will have to make time to learn of him.  

Afterward visiting Mayor Fitzgerald’s memorial plaque, I went to walk up North Street for three minutes until I reached the site of Rose Elizabeth Fitzgerald Kennedy’s Birthplace at 4 Garden Court in the North End neighborhood.

I noted that from Mr. Mantel’s photo in 2012, there were double green doors at the address. For some time, they have been changed to brown. I do not know what the situation is with the building at it stands. Maybe the Kennedy Family could purchase it and turn it into a museum honoring the accomplishments of Mayor John F. Fitzgerald and of his daughter Rose and perhaps showcase artifacts from the time period she was born in. It is only an idea though. I doubt it could come to fruition.

After this, I decided to visit my fourth site of pilgrimage. On the way there, I stopped at the entrance of Faneuil Hall, and I asked a national park service ranger where I could find my next location. He directed me on where I should go to reach the location. I thanked him and went on my way. It would be close by. The fourth site of my pilgrimage was 10 Kilby Street.

The significance of that address was that according to information that Mr. Mantel provided, it was John F. Kennedy’s Senate campaign headquarters. I sadly could not any building stating “10 Kilby,” but I chose to trust Mr. Mantel and believe the photo he shared from 2012 was the location for the 1952 Massachusetts senatorial campaign. He also says that “Longtime Kennedy rival Henry Cabot Lodge apparently had his own campaign offices in the very same square.”

After this, I walked in westward direction for five minutes until I reached Old City Hall at 45 School Street. However, since there were too many people in the area. I decided I would come back another day. 

[Note/Edit: I returned on August 31st to photograph the area when it was less crowded. I also went inside the building for the very first time. I did not see that mentioned the name of former Mayor John F. Fitzgerald of Boston there, but since it was a government building until 1969, I could least know that it was the municipal office for the Mayor of Boston during the time of when his grandson was in the White House.] 

I then chose to go to Omni Parker House at 60 School Street instead. 

I was worried about my appearance since it was a prestigious hotel, but I chose to enter regardless of how I felt. I asked to speak to a manager, and when she came out, I politely asked if I could photograph table number forty in their restaurant. She said that I could if no one was sitting there. She guided me to the restaurant and sure enough there was a couple sitting there. She then asked if I wanted to wait, but I assured her that I could come back. She then asked the greeter to let me in to the restaurant to photograph the table when I returned. Upon thanking her, I walked for nine minutes to Union Oyster House, which was opening for the day.

I arrived at Union Oyster House, nine minutes after it opened. There was a line of two or three couples ahead of me trying to get in. When it was turn, I asked if I could see “The Kennedy Booth.” The greeter assured me that I could enter and told me to go the stairs and take a right. I did so. Upon entering, I saw a water tank full of lobsters, unknowingly waiting for their fate to become someone else’s meal.

I then went up the stairs as I was directed.

 Upon reaching the top of the stairs, I saw a sign overhead that said, “Favorite Booth of President John F. Kennedy – 18” with an arrow pointing to the location.

I did my best to be discreet as there were people eating there and I did not want to get in the way of the servers. I found the booth that JFK favored and took pictures of it to document my discovery.

Along with an overhead sign saying that it was “The Kennedy Booth,” there was a plaque featuring an engraved profile of JFK’s head. According to that article from Boston University News Service, written by Ashley Paul, it states that states that as a Senator, John Kennedy would go there on Sunday afternoons. Pattie Burke, the restaurant manager, is quoted to have said that “when President Kennedy was a senator, he would come on Sunday afternoons and stay for about three hours and order lobster stew. He would bring about five newspapers and read the whole time.” She also mentioned that “when Ted Kennedy was alive, he always sat in this booth. After Ted passed away, the family all came here during the break time between the wakes. Robert Kennedy and Ethel used to come here a lot too.” I had no idea how much this space meant so much to this family as a place to remember their loved ones.

After visiting “The Kennedy Booth” at Union Oyster House, I then returned to Omni Parker Hotel.

Upon entering the lobby, I went into the direction of the restaurant to take photos of table number forty, which the greeter kindly allowed me to do.

The significance of table number forty is that according to a blog entry called “JFK and Jackie O: A Boston Proposal,” it states that it was John F. Kennedy’s “chosen proposal spot, to propose” to Jacqueline Bouvier. I am not sure if this is true because there is another restaurant in Washington D.C. called “Martin’s Tavern” and it is claimed that Kennedy proposed to her there. Although the story of the proposal at that site is disputed, I really hope that the proposal happened in Boston. I could certainly imagine the couple eating together at table number forty at the restaurant at Omni Parker House.

According to a 2008 article on the JFK Library’s website, “The Omni Parker House is considered the site of John F. Kennedy’s first public speech at the age of six, when he publicly called grandfather ‘Honey Fitz’ Fitzgerald ‘the best grandfather a child ever had.’ Twenty-three years later Kennedy returned to the Omni Parker House to announce his candidacy for Congress, and, in 1953, to hold his bachelor party.”

After photographing table number forty, I then asked if I could view "The Press Room" where Kennedy held his bachelor party. She said I would not be able to, but I was allowed to explore the second floor where it was located. I thanked her for her time and service and went upstairs to the second floor. 

Once there, I proceeded to look for "The Press Room" to see if by any chance I would be able to enter to see, photograph, and imagine what Kennedy's bachelor party would have looked like. I don’t know the details of that party, but according to Mr. Mantel, “George Smathers fell out” of a window “and broke his leg during JFK’s bachelor party.” I decided to proceed with extra caution.

I arrived at the doors of "The Press Room" and I cautiously tried to enter, but as expected the doors were locked. Even though I could not get in, I would not leave empty handed. I took pictures of the artwork on display on the second floor.

 

I also saw that there was a painting of Nathaniel Hawthorne, (1804-1864), an author best known for "The Scarlet Letter" (1850) and "The House of the Seven Gables" (1851).

After this, I saw it was without purpose to stay any longer than I needed to. Before I left, I asked an employee for some and was given three bottles of water. I thank him and soon exited the building to my next destination. 

I tried again to go onto area where Old City Hall is located, but there were still too many people on the site. I chose to go visit another day when there would be less people, preferable early in the morning. From Omni Parker House, I walked for about seven minutes to my next location, which was Faneuil Hall. I chose not to take photos of the exterior of the building as there was too many and performing artists were showcasing their talents. I was not here for them. I soon went inside the building from the rear entrance and went upstairs into the prestigious hall.

Faneuil Hall, which was completed in 1742, was named after Peter Faneuil who offered to fund the construction of the building as a gift to the town. Since that time, it was used as a market building and as public meeting space for Boston. According to the proprietor’s website, it "remains a site of meetings, protests, and debate right up to this very day. Because Revolutionary-era meetings and protests took place so frequently at the hall, successive generations continued to gather at the Hall in their own struggles over the meaning and legacy of American liberty. Abolitionists, women's suffragists, and labor unionists name just the largest of groups who have held protests, meetings, and debates at Faneuil Hall."

This was also the site were Democratic Senator Ted Kennedy, who was in the political fight of his life debated Republican Candidate Mitt Romney in the Massachusetts Senatorial Election of 1994. 

Yet despite being underestimated, Senator Kennedy won the debate and was reelected to serve in the United States Senate. The senator would serve the people of Massachusetts for the remainder of his life.

I soon left the hall to go to the visitor center downstairs. I quickly realized that I misplaced my camera. I had to go up the stairs to retrace my steps, hoping that no one had stolen it. I then asked one of the national park service rangers, who had already found it. I was so grateful and thanked the staff for retrieving the camera on my behalf. Once it was in my possession again, I then went downstairs to the visitor's center.

Upon entering the visitor's center, there was an exhibit about the history and of the legacy of the building. I noticed was also a photograph of Senator John F. Kennedy speaking at Faneuil Hall documented to have been on the final night before Election Day of 1960.

I then went to an information desk to ask for directions to another location. While I was riding the subway into Boston, I was reading a copy of "JFK: Coming of Age in the American Century, (1917–1956)" by Fredrik Logevall. I read that John Kennedy had moved into Bellevue Hotel in 1946 for his run for congress. I realized that I wanted to look for it since it was a site that he had been to in this area. The ladies at the information looked on my behalf and found that it was at 21 Beacon Street. I asked if it was still an operating hotel, I was told that it was turned into a condominium. I thanked the ladies for their services, left Faneuil Hall, and walked for ten minutes to my next destination at 21 Beacon Street.

[Note/Edit: Along the way, I had passed 18 Tremont Street where according to Fredrik Logevall's book on page 414, "Local campaign offices sprouted up in various parts of the district, with a headquarters in a dingy suite on the second floor at 18 Tremont Street, in Boston." I had forgotten to photograph the building, so I returned on August 31 to take photos of the building that once housed the congressional campaign headquarters of John F. Kennedy in 1946.]

Sure enough and with gratitude to the ladies who assisted me, I had arrived at 21 Beacon Street, where according to page 414 of Fredrik Logevall’s book, it is stated that “to establish his legitimacy in the district and the state, Jack moved into a nondescript, sparsely furnished two-room suite at Bellevue Hotel, on Beacon Hill, where his grandfather Honey Fitz, now eighty-two and as garrulous as ever, lived. A stone’s throw from the State House, the suite became the hub of the still nascent, still undeclaring campaign, the place where the initial strategy and tactics were hashed out.”

On my way to the next destination on Bowdoin Street, I noticed an image of the John Kennedy on the window of a bar that was cleverly called “21st Amendment.”

It is stated on the window that “when he returned to Boston after World War II, John Fitzgerald Kennedy took an apartment, right here on Bowdoin Street, to run for Congress and begin his meteoric rise that led to his decision as the youngest President of the United States in 1960. At that time, today’s 21st Amendment served as ‘The Gentleman’s Bar’ of the well-known Hotel Bellevue and ‘JFK’ was a regular guest here meeting with family, friends and political advisers to dream about his brilliant political future.” 

From here, I continued walking until I reached 122 Bowdoin Street.

According to Mr. Mantel’s assessment, “From roughly 1946 until his death, JFK kept a part-time residence right across from the State House in this building at 122 Bowdoin Street. It was the official ‘home’ residence (i.e. voter’s registration) he personally carried in his wallet when he died.” Though I trust Mr. Mantel, I want to find more sources that verify his findings. For this, more research will be required.

Much like the former Bellevue Hotel, this building was also a stone's throw from the Massachusetts State House, which was closed to the public for the weekend. 

I then went to go the front of the State House for I thought would be my final stop before going home. 

According to the U.S. National Park Service website, “the Massachusetts State House serves as the home for the State Senate, House of Representatives, and Governor’s Office. Inside, murals, statues and governors’ portraits illustrate the state’s history.” I had been twice inside before, but this was not my goal for today. I wanted to see the bronze statue of John F. Kennedy located outside the State House.

According to Scot Lehigh’s 2013 article in the Boston Globe, “the State House grounds hold sculptor Isabel McIlvain’s eye-catching bronze likeness of JFK, unveiled before a crowd of 2,500 — a crowd that included Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Ted Kennedy — on what would have been Kennedy’s 73rd birthday back in 1990. For more than a decade, the Kennedy statue made the State House’s western grounds a popular spot for sightseers.”

It stands at eight feet and two inches from the granite based that serves as the statue’s foundation. It looks as though he is walking in a forward motion, showcasing his energy and vitality. 

As I was taking photos of the statue from behind the fence, another gentleman came by with a lady companion to view the statue as well. The gentleman decided and then proceeded to climb over the fence, walked over to the statue, took photos of himself next to it, returned to the sidewalk where I was, and left. I thought that it was amusing that he was able to do what he did without fear of security. For a second, I thought I about doing the same, but I thought I would not be a good idea in my case.

I did not take the risk because according to Steve Annear’s article for the Boston Globe, visitors would have to enter the State House first and after going through security screening, finally exiting the building from a door nearest to the statue in order to have access to it. I would go to the statue one day, but it would have to be through the permission from a local state representative and having to wait for my appeal to be approved knowing full well that it would be a long process.

I wanted to complete my journey for the day here with the image of the statue in my mind, thinking about JFK - the man, the icon, and the legend. As I was walking on the Boston Common to board the subway for my trip home, I suddenly realized there was one more site that I had to visit. Admittedly, I was tired, hungry, and my feet were hurting. I initially lamented that I would have preferred that the JFK statue I had seen outside the State House to be the final site of my pilgrimage for the day. However, I decided that since I was already in Boston and since I did not want to look for it on a second trip, I would make the commitment to go forward and look for the site.

I walked up Joy Street, past the Museum of African American History, where I have visited before in 2015.

After eight minutes of walking, I finally found what would become my final site of my pilgrimage for the day. It was The Old West Church, located at 131 Cambridge Street.

According to the West End Museum’s website, “The Old West Church, standing at 131 Cambridge St, is one of the few surviving buildings of the historic West End. Since its opening in 1806, the building has served as a church, a library, a shelter, and a church again. It continues to hold masses and contribute to the Boston community today.”

Another part of the same website also states that JFK “and Jackie Kennedy cast their ballots at the West End Branch of the Boston Public Library, then in the basement of the Old West Church on Cambridge Street. A crowd of more than four-hundred people waited to see the Kennedys at the West End polling precinct before the future President and First Lady drove to the airport for a flight to Hyannis, where they would await the results.”

As I was taking photos, I met a kind and homeless lady named Maria who was sitting at the gate asking people who walked by her for money. She told me about her life story, how she was waiting for her son to bring her home to Florida. She also mentioned that there were other churches if I could photograph, but I replied that I was looking for sites in connection with JFK. She then said to me, “there’s a picture of JFK in the corner.” I went over to the corner thinking it would be a framed photo of the Kennedys casting their ballots on Election Day. Instead, I was greeted by a colorful mural.

After documenting this discovery, I went back to where Maria was sitting to thank her. If it was not for her, I would not have known that the mural existed. In gratitude, I gave her my last bottle of water (that Omni Parker House generously supplied) and some money before leaving. On my way back, seeing the mural and the quote next to the image of John F. Kennedy gave me a new perspective. 

I did not need to focus on the man himself, but what he stood for. This image of Kennedy casts him as a bright beacon of hope. Historian Robert Dallek, said it best, "...what I'm struck by is how frozen he is in our minds at the age of 46. Nobody can imagine that he'd be 96 years old today. And it's not as if he looks like some 19th century figure with a high collar; he's one of us. He still looks like us, looks like he's part of our culture.... Kennedy is the one who still gives people hope. He's an inspirational voice. People see him as promising a better day for America.” I would like to believe that this mural represents how people see him today and how even today, he still inspires those who heed his words to become active participants in trying to improve the quality of our lives and of the world around us. I believe this is his legacy.

As for myself, this has been an interesting month of brand-new discoveries in connection to a world leader I had never had the chance to experience. I not only need to look to the past for inspiration, but I can also go to places and the see the environments that molded people to become what they were destined to be. Now upon reflection after having returned home today, I can now attest for the first time in just this month of August, I have visited six cemeteries, two places of birth, two restaurants, two places of worship, two former campaign headquarters, and two buildings JFK occupied. What a journey! To think that I visited all of these places to honor someone I never knew. I am far from completed from seeing every place in connection to the Kennedy Family here in Massachusetts. For now, I will relax for the rest of this weekend and contemplate what my next pilgrimage will be for next weekend.

To conclude this journal entry, I have chosen to share remarks that John F Kennedy gave at Faneuil Hall on November 7, 1960:

“All of the past tells us something about the future.

I've traveled all over the United States - been to 50 States in the last month - and I must say I come back to this old city with the strongest possible confidence in the future of the United States, in the ability of its people to meet its responsibilities, to bear our burdens, to strengthen our cause, to identify ourselves and others with the cause of freedom around the world.

In 1860, in the campaign a hundred years ago, Abraham Lincoln said the issue was whether this Nation could exist half slave and half free.

Now 100 years later, the question is will the world exist half slave and half free or will it move in the direction of freedom? Or will it move in the direction of slavery?

I believe it will move in the direction of freedom. And I believe that this is especially true if we here in the United States begin to move again.

The challenge of 1960, of 1961, 1962, 1963, and 1964 is whether or not the people of the United States are determined to move forward again; to build a stronger, more progressive, more vigorous society; to demonstrate what freedom can really do; to serve as an ornament to the cause of freedom around the world; to send the most talented men and women we have in the country to service in Washington, to represent us all over the world as spokesmen for freedom, as well as spokesmen for the United States.

I believe we can do these things. I believe we can build a strong and productive society that employs our people, educates our children, provides security for our aged and opportunity for all.

That is the responsibility of all of us, and it is especially the responsibility of the next President of the United States to set before our country the unfinished business of our society.”